Bearded Dragons

My Dragon called Fawkes

The Bearded Dragon’s Buffet: Feeding Tips with a Smile

Bearded dragons (Pogona vitticeps) are charming, spiky little Aussies with hearty appetites. In fact, they’re full-fledged omnivores, happily munching both plants and critters. Young beardies behave like tiny carnivores, snarfing down insects, while adults shift toward greens. In this (tongue-in-cheek!) guide we’ll cover everything you need to know about your dragon’s diet – from hatching to high-five age – including what to feed, what to avoid, how to dole out vitamins and water, and even fun quirks and myths. Buckle up; your beardie’s next meal awaits!

What’s on the Menu: Insects, Greens, and More

A balanced beardie diet mixes protein sources (live insects and occasional vertebrate treats) with fresh produce. Typical safe insects include crickets, dubia roaches, locusts/grasshoppers, hornworms (captive-grown only), silkworms, snails, black soldier fly larvae, etc. Offer variety – each feeder bug has a different nutritional profile – and remember to gut-loadthem (feed them nutritious food and water 24+ hours before giving them to your dragon). Feeder insects act as mini salad carts if you pack them full of calcium-rich greens and veggies.

Treat-feeders like mealworms, superworms, waxworms or pinky mice are high-fat, so use them sparingly as treats (e.g. once a week or less). Never snag random bugs from the garden: wild insects can carry pesticides or natural toxins (fireflies in particular are very poisonous).

Vegetables are just as vital. Think leafy greens and veggies – collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, bok choy, dandelion greens, parsley, cilantro, carrots, bell peppers, squash, green beans, cucumber (peeled), etc. Aim to offer a mix of greens every day; variety ensures a balance of calcium, vitamins, and fiber. A good rule: pile on the salad! Even hatchlings should get a “salad buffet” daily to snack on. Fruits are yummy but sugary, so serve them rarely as treats. Safe fruits include apple, banana, mango, melon, berries, papaya, peaches, cactus fruit, and figs – but remember, these are desserts, not staples.

Some foods are big no-no’s. Avoid onions, garlic and mushrooms entirely – they’re toxic to beardies. High-oxalate greens like spinach, beet greens, swiss chard and rhubarb lock up calcium, so use them only sparingly. Iceberg lettuce and celery are mostly water with almost no nutrition – not worth the fuss. Also skip avocados (toxic fats) and wild foraged plants unless you are absolutely certain they’re safe. When in doubt, check a reptile-safe food chart or stick to the basics above.

Feeding by Life Stage

Bearded dragons eat differently as they grow. The youngest lizards guzzle protein to fuel their rapid growth, whereas full-grown adults shift to a more herbivorous menu. Adjust portions and ratios accordingly:

Hatchlings (0–6 months):

These little dragons need lots of protein (insects) and frequent meals. Feed insects twice a day, as many as they can eat in 10–15 minutes – up to 80% of their diet. Use very small crickets/bugs (no bigger than the space between the eyes), and offer a variety. Also provide salad daily: chopped tender greens and veggies (the other ~20–30% of diet). Dust every meal of insects with calcium supplement (D3 one day, plain calcium the next) and give a multivitamin powder on veggies ~2×/week.

Juveniles (6–12 months):

Young dragons still grow quickly, so keep feeding protein daily, but you can start scaling back slightly. Many guides say about 5–6 head-sized insects per day (or insect portion equal to 3–4× the volume of veggies), and continue salad each day. Feed once a day (instead of twice). Supplements remain important – dust insects + veggies with calcium every feeding, and multivitamins 1–2×/week.

Adults (12+ months):

A full-grown beardie needs less protein. Many adults thrive on insects only a couple of times a week (≈3–4 large crickets/roaches, 2–3×/week). The rest of the diet should be veggies and greens. Continue dusting calcium on insect meals and every other veggie meal, and do a multivitamin dust about once a week.

In short: as your dragon grows, gradually flip the diet from bug-heavy to plant-heavy. Hatchlings are ~70–80% protein, whereas adults often eat ~70–80% veggies. This shift helps prevent obesity and gout – common problems in beardies that stay too meaty too long.

How to Feed: Plate & Portion

• Feeding Dish: Always serve food in a shallow dish or feeding container. Avoid scattering food on loose sand or gravel – beardies might ingest substrate and risk impaction.

• Prey Size & Gut-loading: No prey item should be larger than the space between the dragon’s eyes. Always gut-load feeders for 24+ hours before feeding.

• Dusting Supplements: Before feeding insects, coat them in powdered supplements. Alternate D3 and non-D3 calcium powder. Give a reptile multivitamin 1×/week.

• Hydration: Provide a clean, shallow water dish daily. Soak your dragon’s veggies in water before feeding – it flavors them and boosts hydration.

• Temperature and Timing: Always feed during the dragon’s warm daytime hours (around 90–100°F in the basking spot). A cold beardie won’t have much appetite or digestive capacity.

Supplements: Fortify the Feast

Think of supplements as the spice rack of your dragon’s diet. Calcium is the top priority: a lack of dietary calcium or UVB leads to metabolic bone disease. Even "nutritious" feeders should be dusted. Provide UVB lighting (or safe sun exposure) to ensure proper calcium absorption.

Hydration: More Than Just Water

Hydration is key. Offer fresh water daily. Hydrate through juicy veggies (cucumber, melon) and gut-loaded insects. If you suspect slight dehydration, try gently dripping water on the dragon’s snout.

Common Feeding Mistakes

• Overfeeding Insects: Adult beardies don’t need continuous crickets.

• Underfeeding Growers: Baby dragons that aren’t fed enough bugs will stunt.

• Skipping Supplements: No UVB + no calcium = MBD.

• Feeding on Loose Substrate: Leads to impaction.

• One-Note Diet: Variety is vital.

• Large Prey: Crunch prey to manageable size.

• No Water: Always offer clean water.

• Echoing Myths: Avoid hearsay; trust expert advice.

Myth vs Fact: Busting Beardie Beliefs

• Myth: "Dragons drink through their skin." Fact: They do not absorb water through skin or cloaca.

• Myth: "Kale will kill my beardie." Fact: Kale is a nutritious option in moderation.

• Myth: "They don’t need a water bowl." Fact: False. Always offer one.

• Myth: "Only crickets are enough." Fact: Mix it up.

• Myth: "Misting the tank hydrates them." Fact: Misting alone isn’t sufficient.

Quirky Beardie Behaviors (Fun Facts!)

• Beard Displays: Puffing while eating = excitement or dominance.

• Head Bobbing & Waving: Some beardies bob for bugs. Others wave to say hi.

• Color Mood: Beard color can signal mood.

• Tree Climbing: Beardies like to scale things – especially for food.

• They "Taunt" Bugs: They love tracking prey with intense focus.

Feeding Dilemmas & How to Solve Them

• Green Refusal: Try hiding greens under insects.

• Too Much Fruit: Balance sweet treats with greens.

• Weight Gain: Check for a defined waist.

• Dehydration Warning: Watch for wrinkly skin or sunken eyes.

Conclusion

Feeding a bearded dragon is a joyous routine: a time when your goofy, dragon-faced pet lights up and shows its curious personality. With a balanced buffet of gut-loaded insects, fresh greens, and proper supplements, you’ll help your dragon thrive and even add years to its life. Keep meals varied, stay on top of vitamins and hydration, and avoid the pitfalls above. As long as the claws come out eagerly for dinnertime, you’re doing it right!

“A dragon’s belly is never full… but ours sure is happy!”